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21 Essex iconic landmarks to see on foot
Hadleigh Castle
High on a hill and standing sentinel over marshland and the Benfleet Estuary, the building of Hadleigh Castle began in the 1230s by Hubert de Burgh, Earl of Kent. He was gifted the land by King John, for whom he was chief minister and justiciar. It was extensively refortified by Edward III during the Hundred Years War as it was perfectly situated for defending the Thames from French raids. Hadleigh eventually became a favourite retreat for the ageing king.
The views from this romantic ruin are spectacular, and upon close inspection, the checkerboard flint work on the walls shows the amount of effort that went into its design. The main site, only accessible on foot, is free to enter, with walks into Hadleigh Country Park one way and Old Leigh the other.
The Crowstone, Chalkwell
Many people pass along Chalkwell Esplanade every day, oblivious to a piece of 185-year-old Grade II-listed history standing proudly on the silt. Just a few metres into the river stands an obelisk, which looks like a mysterious ruin. It is in fact the Crowstone, which was installed in 1837. A third of the way up, a line of green algae shows the extent of the high tide.
On the Crowstone is a plaque, reading: ‘This boundary stone…was erected in 1837 to mark the seaward limit at that time of the City of London’s jurisdiction over the River Thames. Beside it stood a smaller stone erected by the Lord Mayor of London on 25 August 1755, which was removed to Priory Park, Southend-on-Sea, in the year 1950.’ The 1755 stone replaced an even older stone, and historians believe that there could have been markers on this site for 700 years!
Mistley Towers
Mistley Towers is an unusual site, and one of architectural significance. The two towers are all that remain of a church at Mistley, designed by architect Robert Adam, whose client was Richard Rigby of Mistley Hall.
Rigby attained wealth and influence when George III made him Paymaster General of the Forces in 1768. He hatched a scheme to turn Mistley into a fashionable spa town, and he called in Robert Adam to design a saltwater bath by the river. This plan was abandoned, and Adam was put to work on a church in 1776. Sadly, Rigby’s plans for a spa were unsuccessful and the body of the church was demolished in 1870. The two towers were preserved and restored in the 1950s. Today, visitors can enter Mistley Towers from 10am-4pm.
Chelmsford Cathedral
Chelmsford’s impressive gothic-style cathedral is thought to have been built along with the town in around 1200. It was rebuilt in the 15th and 16th centuries, with intricate walls of flint rubble, stone and brick. The church has a square tower with a green weathered copper spire and a ring of 13 bells, 12 of which were cast by John Warner & Sons at Cripplegate.
In 1914, the church became the cathedral for the newly created diocese of Chelmsford. Inside, the roof is painted in Tudor-esque reds and greens, which rival the colourful blues and reds of the stained-glass window behind the alter. It really is a marvel of design, human ingenuity and faith.
Heybridge Basin
Heybridge Basin is centred around the huge sea lock, at the end of the 13-mile Chelmer and Blackwater Navigation, joining the canal to the Blackwater Estuary. The basin was dug out of the marsh to enable sea-going vessels to enter the canal and unload cargoes onto barges for transport inland to Chelmsford.
From the sea wall, you can enjoy splendid views over the estuary and Osea Island – you may even see a historic Thames barge cruising out of Maldon – and all this can be made even better with a bowl of chips from The Old Ship. Despite increasing visitor numbers, Heybridge Basin retains a sense of uncommercialised maritime authenticity and in places, it feels like a centuries-old nautical tradition is being lovingly upheld.
Cockle Row, Leigh-on-Sea
In Old Leigh, the cockle boats go out to lift a living from Essex waters as they have done since time immemorial. In years past, fishing companies would race each other back on an incoming tide, running aground in the narrow channel every now and then until more water flowed in allowing them to continue – ‘touch-and-go’ as they called it. The first boat back got the best price for their cockles, which were sold to hungry locals in Cockle Row.
Cockle Row is a line of seaweed-green cockle sheds on the silty foreshore, which still sell cockles today, chiefly run by Osborne Bros who founded their family business in 1880. The weatherboarded sheds seem embedded into the landscape, and fewer more iconic sights can be found locally.
The Naze Tower, Walton-on-the-Naze
Happy childhood days were spent here searching for fossilised shark teeth down on the beach. A kind ‘fossil man’, as we called him, had a stall outside the tower and loved to look at our finds and tell us about what we had found.
The Naze Tower is a Grade II-listed 86ft landmark built in 1720 to act as a navigation mark. It assisted ships sailing in and out of Harwich along what is otherwise a fairly featureless stretch of coastline. During the late 18th century, it was a venue for tea parties for the wealthy – just 30 years later it became a signalling station during the Napoleonic Wars. Today, visitors can enter the tower and enjoy views of the London Clay, Red Crag cliffs and shark tooth-scattered beaches.
Constable country, Dedham
Straddling the border between Essex and Suffolk, Constable country encompasses some of England’s most recognisable views. Dedham has been made famous by the paintings of John Constable, one of the country’s foremost landscape artists, who went to school there in the 18th century.
Nestled in the heart of the Dedham Vale, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, Dedham’s high street features independent shops, Georgian architecture, cosy timber-framed pubs and quintessentially English tearooms. My favourite place to visit is Dedham Arts and Crafts Centre; this historic converted church houses a multitude of artistic treasures, which are crafted by local artisans. In the high season, you can rent a rowing boat from Flatford Mill to enjoy the River Stour and arrive at Dedham in style.
Bourne Mill, Colchester
Bourne Mill has to be one of the most charming sites in Essex, sitting at the edge of the reflective millpond and babbling stream with weeping willows hanging down, contrasting with the duck-egg coloured door and terracotta tiles. It looks like a scene from a Disney film.
The Grade I-listed building was originally built as an Elizabethan fishing lodge in 1591 before being converted into a fulling mill around 1640, and then to a corn mill in 1840, which continued working until the 1930s. Amazingly, the waterwheel still works and is hypnotic to watch. The woody grounds are a haven for wildlife, including bats, waterfowl, bugs and beetles – and tranquil picnic spots are abundant. The site is carefully managed by the National Trust.
Audley End House & Gardens, Saffron Walden
My brother used to volunteer at Audley End, and twice a month we would visit the vast rooms of the 17th century Jacobean country house and take in the curiosities, such as taxidermised birds and Victorian labelled fossils. To truly explore the vast landscaped gardens, lawns and ponds, you need at least a whole other day.
Now just a third of its original size, the history of Audley End is one of vastly fluctuating fortunes, with episodes of ambitious development and royalty followed by periods of decline. Quite simply, Audley End House is the definition of a landmark, known as ‘one of the greatest houses of the early 17th century’. In my eyes, it will always be one of the most impressive buildings in England.
The Chapel of St Peter-on-the-Wall, Bradwell-on-Sea
This ancient Saxon chapel is the oldest church in England built by St Cedd in 654AD. Sat right on the coast and surrounded by flat farmland, it is an outpost of civilisation, which can only be reached by a quarter-mile walk from the free car park. This is simply a must for walkers and photographers.
My most memorable visit was for a Folk Songs by Candlelight event last autumn, hosted by Colchester Arts Centre and Reverend Simpkins. To see the chapel lit only by the orange glow pouring out of the wooden doorway into the inky blackness was unforgettable. An old Saxon quote written on the chapel sign sums up this enchanting landmark: ‘In this place the world is revealed to you.’
Beeleigh Falls, Maldon
Near Heybridge Basin, two rivers – the Chelmer and Blackwater – meet at Beeleigh. A wide, beautiful weir named Beeleigh Falls can be found there with freshwater above and tidal salt water below, creating a special environment for wildlife. A red-brick bridge spans the river and just behind is a pair of flood gates protecting Heybridge from the tides.
The Chelmer and Blackwater Navigation is 14 miles long and contains 12 locks; it was built in the 1790s to carry goods such as grain, timber, lime and coal to Chelmsford from the Blackwater estuary using horse-drawn barges and later motorised barges. From Beeleigh Falls you can follow the towpath upstream to Chelmsford, downstream to Heybridge or use the public footpaths to follow the old cut north to Langford.
Waltham Abbey
The traditional market town of Waltham Abbey is steeped in history, hosting an impressive church and abbey grounds at its core – a true landmark – as well as a charming high street with timber-framed buildings.
Harold, the last Saxon King of England (probably best known for losing at the Battle of Hastings in 1066), founded Waltham’s monastery and is reputedly buried in its grounds. The abbey was dissolved in 1540 but was the last monastic house in England to be surrendered to the Crown. The only substantial remains are an impressive 14th century gatehouse and bridge, as well as the walls of the post-medieval house that were built following the dissolution. Visitors are welcomed daily.
Paper Mill Lock, Little Baddow
To me, the name Paper Mill Lock is synonymous with its wonderful tearoom, which has a lovely lunch menu and selection of cakes – all with a riverside view. As you chow down, swans raise their periscope heads over the side to see if you have a morsel to spare, but they are perfectly friendly from a distance.
As a child, we used to kayak down the river – halfway along the Chelmer and Blackwater Navigation – and carry them around each lock. I never get tired of looking at the barges moored on each side, with vivid red and green paints and lovely names like Campion and Victoria. In warmer months, canal cruises and river trips can be taken from the waterside and walking trails are in abundance.
Tollesbury Lightship (Lightvessel 15)
I am hard pressed to think of many other sights in Essex more striking than the Tollesbury lightship; it’s giant, bright red and sitting on the tessellating rusty saltmarshes of Woodrolfe Creek. The first time that I saw the lightship was when I sailed into Tollesbury Marina on a powerboat course, doing my best not to accidentally hit any other boats. Even under that pressure, the lightship was transfixing and stole my attention.
In the 1960s and 70s, Lightvessel 15 (as it is also known) was stationed off the south coast of Wales, guarding the Scarweather sandbank near Porthcawl. However, after retirement in 1988 she was renamed Trinity, converted inside and is now owed by the Fellowship Afloat Charitable Trust who run nautical activity holidays and retreats for young people.
Finchingfield Green
Finchingfield, called ‘Phincingfelda’ in the time of William the Conqueror, is like a place plucked from the pages of a fairy tale. The combination of duck pond, village green, looping bridge and The Fox on the Green pub – watched over by colour-washed cottages, an 18th century windmill and medieval church – gives it an unmatched series of traditional English views. Finchingfield has been described as ‘the most photographed village in England’ and it is clear to see why.
We always used to stop by on the way back from holidays and visit one of the tearooms in the village. So, if you want a view into quintessential England, similar to the world’s constructed by Beatrix Potter and Kenneth Grahame, then Finchingfield is a must-see.
Two Tree Island, Leigh-on-Sea
Two Tree Island is made up of grassland and salt marshland adjacent to the Thames Estuary and, reclaimed in the 18th century, it is used as a winter refuge for a variety of winter wildfowl and waders like curlew and dunlin. I was only there the other week, watching the avocets from the bird hide that Essex Wildlife Trust has recently built there.
The name of the island originates from two large elm trees that were once a notable feature until a storm brought them down in the 1960s. It is very close to Leigh-on-Sea and right next to the station, so it is the perfect spot for a nature-filled walk before grabbing a seafood lunch in town.
Harwich Redoubt Fort
Harwich Redoubt is an impressive 60m diameter spaceship-like circular fort built in 1808 to defend the port of Harwich from Napoleonic invasion. It was built on a hilltop just outside of the town to give an unrestricted field of fire across the estuaries of the River Stour and River Orwell, which form the entrance to the harbour.
After World War Two, it was falling into disrepair, but a restoration project began in 1969 by the Harwich Society and continues to the present day. During the restoration, a mighty 19th century cannon was found in the dry moat and is now on display. Nowadays, the fort is open to the public every Sunday – it is certainly a unique day out!
Hedingham Castle
The deciduous woodland surrounding the majestic Hedingham Castle bursts forth with differing shades of green in spring. A lawn surrounds this fortress like a moat and the romantic castle itself stands in the heart of its ancient ramparts and medieval park, which have evolved into beautifully landscaped gardens. It is owned by the Lindsay family, who are descendants of the Earl of Oxford who built it over 900 years ago.
The grounds encompass a millennia of defensive ramparts, medieval husbandry, gardens and sweeping views of Essex. Whether you are on the motte and bailey looking across the farmland of Essex, wandering through the bluebell meadow in spring or strolling through the lime avenue by the lake, each turn is like stepping into a Gainsborough painting.
Cressing Temple Barns
Cressing Temple Barns were built in the 13th century and gifted to the Knights Templar, which makes them of particular interest for their unique architecture and surrounding gardens. There are a number of Grade I-listed barley and wheat barns, which are among the oldest timber barns (and few surviving Templar buildings) in England.
Among Cressing Temple’s many gardens, the Walled Garden is the jewel in the crown, faithfully reconstructed as a Tudor pleasure garden – one of only a few in the country. Picnics are spectacular in the gardens, but if you happen to forget your picnic basket, cream teas at The Barns Tea Room are excellent. What’s more, both admission and parking is free!
Byrhtnoth statue, Maldon Promenade
Past the children’s playground, past the model boating lake and all the way out at the end of Maldon promenade stands a proud statue of Byrhtnoth, the protector of the River Blackwater. It was created by John Doubleday and faces Northey Island, where a great battle once took place.
Byrhtnoth was an Ealdorman of Essex and was said to have been more than six feet tall and around 60 with ‘swan white hair’ when he died in 991AD at the Battle of Maldon. As a veteran of battle who had previously led several military successes against Viking raiders, some say that it took three men to kill him. Such was his renown as a leader that he became the subject of The Battle of Maldon, an Old English Poem.
