Six O’Clock Solution: Asparagus with labneh

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The local asparagus season has arrived, or is warming up, depending on the region. Variations begin to appeal as those tender spears of spring become a daily treat.

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The celebrated Israeli-born British chef Yotam Ottolenghi has a fancy way to prepare asparagus in the latest of his 10 cookbooks from his empire of London restaurants. The book, called Extra Good Things (Appetite by Random House, $37.50), has you making your own labneh from Greek yogurt and browning and grinding lemons as a trimming.

This slightly simplified version calls for a good commercial Greek yogurt and fresh lemon juice. It’s a special dish from “big man Y,” as the book’s co-author Noor Murad calls her boss.

Asparagus with labneh

Serves 4

Labneh

2 cups (650 g) Greek yogurt

½ teaspoon (2 mL) salt

1 garlic clove, minced

Asparagus

2 pounds (1 kg) thick-stemmed asparagus (2 to 3 bunches), stumps trimmed

3 tablespoons (45 mL) olive oil

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¾ teaspoon (4 mL) salt

Freshly ground pepper

5 tablespoons (75 mL) unsalted butter

2 sprigs fresh thyme plus extra thyme leaves

1 teaspoon (5 mL) light brown sugar

2 tablespoons (30 mL) fresh lemon juice

Labneh

Combine in a bowl the Greek yogurt and the ½ teaspoon (2 mL) salt and mix well.

Line a medium sieve with cheesecloth or a thin, clean dish towel large enough so its borders hang over the sides of the bowl. Add yogurt mixture, turn borders of cheesecloth up to cover mixture, and set sieve over a clean bowl. Place weights on top (a couple of cans of food will do). Refrigerate overnight.

Discard liquid in bowl. You should have about 1 1/4 cups (300 mL) or more labneh. Stir in garlic and let stand until ready to serve. Or refrigerate for later use.

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Asparagus

Heat broiler to high. On a large baking sheet lined with aluminum foil, arrange asparagus spears in a single layer. Drizzle with oil, sprinkle with the ¾ teaspoon (4 mL) salt and a generous amount of pepper.

Broil in preheated broiler close to heat for 10 to 15 minutes, until tender and lightly browned. Let cool slightly.

Meanwhile, melt butter in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, continuing to cook for 3 to 4 minutes until browned and smelling nutty.

Stir in thyme sprigs, brown sugar and 1 tablespoon (15 mL) of the lemon juice. Remove from heat and let cool for 5 minutes.

To serve, spread labneh on a platter or large plate and arrange asparagus in a row on top. Pour browned butter over asparagus, sprinkle with extra thyme leaves and the remaining 1 tablespoon (15 mL) lemon juice. Garnish with lemon zest to taste. Serve at once.

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